Thursday, July 31, 2008

To the Bab

I lied. Another post from Morocco. I leave in an hour for the bus station and then about 5 hours until I am finally in Casablanca. One major city I have yet to visit. Actually the last of the Moroccan major cities I believe. Unless you count Tangier.

Last night I hung out with the host family. It was such a good decision. We had a big tea during which I got henna done. Then we went to a concert a bab boujloud which kinda sucked but was good to hang out with the siblings. Afterwards they put my in a gellaba and took pictures. Then to my surprise I got to keep it. So overly nice of them. I am really glad I got to know them and live with them.

After living both with a family and with students. I think I will almost definitely always pick family. The experience is just sooo much better.

Well, off to travel. No internet til I get back to the states.

-Jescie

Wednesday, July 30, 2008

Because I said so

So this is probably my last post from Morocco. I leave tomorrow morning for Casablanca and then off to Agadir for a week of rest and relaxation by the pool.

It has definitely been a completely different trip then the last time I was here. A little more intense in some ways and not so much in others. Last time everything was new for me and I didn't really know what was going on and the language barrier was way worse. This time I was more in the know but I got a crash course in Moroccan crime. I think I would prefer the first trip.

I think I have a better grasp on my Arabic than ever before which is good. I just wish I had time to continue with it in the states. Hopefully in the future I will be able to take more courses. I was hoping to study abroad a few more times but who knows if that will ever happen.

I can't believe the friendships I am taking away from this place this time. Jacqueline and I have probably been the closest. We do pretty much everything together which it's nice to have someone to do stuff with especially when you actually really click with the person. We are planning on running a half marathon in Arizona this winter. Way pumped about that. There are so many more people too that I sincerely hope to stay in touch with. I know I'll be seeing Sybille before too long since she is letting me crash at her place in Brussels in a week. :)

Well, tonight is dinner and henna with the host family. I think it is very fitting that I am spending my last night in the medina. It is the place I love in Fes no matter how much I complain about the men harassing me. There isn't another place like the old medina any where in the world.

Well, it is time for some haracha and msamen with Jacqueline. I plan to do two more entries: one on the titles of the blog posts and one more from the states. Thanks for reading.

-Jescie

Tuesday, July 29, 2008

So I broke my arm.....

This trip to Morocco seriously couldn't get too much weirder. Though I fear saying that because there are still 10 days to go.

The king is currently in Fes. It is throne day tomorrow and because it is the 1200th anniversary of Fes he is choosing to spend it in Fes. It is a day of re pledging their loyalty to the king. We were told a parade would occur but no one seems to know when or where and no one seems to care. Many roads have already been closed though.

Today was pretty rough class wise. Thank goodness those are almost over. Lunch was tons of fun though. Will made amazing guacamole. I made some pasta. And we watched Casablanca. So good. We were all stuffed and tired and not wanting to attend our afternoon classes.

For dinner we went again to Vietnamese. Very disappointing this time. But there was a group of 14 of us which automatically made it fun. Why in Morocco do we always end up with like 100 dirham too much for the bill whereas in the US we are always short? Just a thought.

-Jescie

Monday, July 28, 2008

I don't wanna be a penguin.....

My last Monday of classes has come and gone. It is such a weird feeling. I feel like I have been in Fes forever. Like the last time I was in the states seems so far away and yet I feel like my summer can't be over already. I can't believe the time I am spending in Morocco is coming to a close. Very weird.

I just got back from Rabat. The weekend was kind of a blur. Saturday was spent mostly lounging around. I cleaned up and did laundry on Friday so I really had nothing to do. I had lunch and dinner with my friend Phil which was nice. I am eating as much msamen and harcha while I'm here. Msamen are these thick crepe like things eaten with honey and sugar or apricot jam. And harcha is like a corn bread but very dense. Both really amazing and I have a recipe for both but it'll probably take awhile to get it right. At least msamen. It's mildly a difficult process to get it right.

We left for Rabat Saturday night and didn't get in until rather late since out train took FOREVER. Our hotel was 'nice' if you can say that. They man at reception was clearly high, probably from sniffing glue since that is the drug of choice here. The walls were shockingly pink with blue trim. It seemed clean for backpacking standards but that's about it. I couldn't fall asleep until close to five am and we were up and out by 930.

The next morning we had an interesting encounter at the gate to the medina which side tracked our day a little bit but other than that it was a lovely time in Rabat. We had an early lunch/late breakfast at a cute little cafe outside our new hotel in la ville nouvelle. And then we went on a very unsuccessful trip to find an English bookstore. Jacqueline, Danielle, and I went to a mausoleum and a minaret that was supposed to be the largest in the world but was left uncompleted. It was really nice and on the water.

After, we went to watch the sunset over the Atlantic with the rest of the group and then we went back to the ville nouvelle for dinner at this amazing little Italian place. SOOOOO GOOD.

Today we came back in time for afternoon class and some shopping in the medina. This next week is packed with henna, Vietnamese, a visit to casa, and the end of classes. Gonna be crazy but I a, definitely looking forward to it.

-Jescie

Friday, July 25, 2008

You know you've studied in Fez when.....

So a friend made this and I jacked it and changed a few items. Enjoy.

-You've taken every form of transportation you can possibly think of
-You take a taxi almost everyday and you can afford it
-You have had a driver of said taxi propose to you
-Even though the exchange rate is in your favor you will fight over half a dirham and then later realize the ridiculousness of arguing over 6 cents.
-You can get a good meal for about a dollar and a high class meal for 5
-You drink at least 1 huge bottle of water a day, and still are on the verge of dehydration
-The food has made you sick
-You have taken Sipro which you can get over the counter
-You get excited about having a bowel movement
-You've discussed your bowel movements at least once with a fellow traveler
-You've slipped tripped or fallen at one point or time
-You became addicted to juice stands
-You've skipped class a few times because you'd rather travel around the country
-You've been sexually harassed on the streets
-You've witnessed a guy jerking off in broad daylight on the streets of Fez
-You don't go out without one other person with you
-Going to Asima or Marjane is exciting
-McDonald's is the only American fast food place in town and eating there is a treat
-You always hope you hotel has toilet paper
-You've had to use a squat toilet
-You didn't bring your laptop and you wait for the computer lab to open everyday at 9am
-Your friends are never online when you are because they're still sleeping
-You've seen the biggest roaches you'll ever see in your life
-When trying to catch a cab it seems that the regular cars pay more attention to you than the taxis
-You've had little children kiss your arm hoping to get some money out of you
-You do your homework in class because you spend half of your class time going over it anyway
-You rode a camel and were hurting for days after it
-You spent an hour trying to tie a scarf around you head so that sand wouldn't get in your face
-You were cleaning Sahara sand out of your clothes and pores for days after the trip
-You spend most of your day hanging out in the ALIF garden or the Villa
-You've overpaid for something
-You've mastered the art of bargaining
-You've lost quite a few of your manners
-You had an official "travel buddy" on all of the trips
-You can't believe how fast time flew by

They hung it on the wall

My love affair with Fez is back on. :) Great week. Looking forward to one more in Fes, two more in the country, and then homeward bound.

Going to Rabat this weekend. We'll see how that goes. I didn't care for it too much last time I was there but I'll give it another shot I suppose. It is just soooo sterile and devoid of culture after living in Fez.

Back in Fez on Monday but leaving on Thursday for Casablanca. I have really had little desire to go here as well though it is always the first place people ask you about when you say that you have been to Morocco. I am getting pumped to see it. I'm gonna go to Rick's and I plan on getting cheesey souvenirs. If you don't know what Rick's is please go watch the movie Casablanca RIGHT NOW! We are having a viewing of the movie before going.

I am spending the night with the host fam on monday. I am pumped. We are gonna do henna and probably have a ridiculously large dinner at some horrid time in the wee hours in the morning. It'll be amazing. I was there today and I miss it. :(

Wednesday is a very exciting day. It is throne day and because it is Fez's 1200th anniversary, the king will be spending the day here. I am totally going to the parade flag in hand. :)

Well that's all for now. Getting pumped about my travels to come. Here's a run down:

-Fes til Saturday night
-Rabat til Monday afternoonish
-Fes til Thursday
-Casa til Saturday
-Agadir til Thursday
-Casa til Friday
-Brussels til Saturday
-HOME!!!

So pumped.

:)

P.S. I just realized that I rarely explain the titles for my entries but they all actually have really weird/interesting stories behind them. Maybe I'll spend a entry just going into them.

Thursday, July 24, 2008

Ikhr Jescie. Hiya leesa mustaqbil.

Another week in Fes is almost over. Two more left and I'll be jet setting on home.

This week the heat has returned with a vengeance. I cannot wait til cooler temperatures and the pools and beach in Agadir. Although, I am probably spending the week alone so hopefully I don't drive myself insane.

Tuesday night I went with Samantha to the last gathering at Bait Kebir. That is a large riad in the medina where a few students were living. They are leaving for multiple reasons the main two being the cost, since a lot of the roommates have already left and the fact that a girl got robbed right outside their door in broad daylight at knife point. All three girls now live in the residence.

It was a pretty chill night, at least the part I was there for. The most exciting/terrifying thing was an incident with a cockroach. Now roaches, though unpleasant, are typically dealable. I mean they aren't like bees and what not that sting or anything they just look disgusting. However, medina cockroaches are another story. These things are the most monstrous creatures I have ever seen. So Sam and I we walking to the roof when I noticed a lovely medina cockroach near her on the stairs. She ran up really quick and I decided to let it scurry out of the way before walking past it. It was on a stair that was level with my face and about a foot and a half maybe two feet in front of me. It appears to be walking away and then next thing I know it flies right at my face. Now I know cockroaches have wings but I was a little petrified when one the size of my hand is soaring towards my face. Not pleasant.

Classes have gotten beyond boring. I am actually supposed to be there right now. :( So not worth it. I haven't really been sleeping so I decided to enjoy my breakfast and catch up on things before heading to Rabat this weekend. I am not a huge fan of Rabat but I think that is because last time I was so in love with Fes. My love for Fes is still there but I am a little done with the hassling and the culture difference so maybe sterile Rabat will be a good change for a weekend. I also plan to hit up the American bookstore so I have stuff to read by the pool in Agadir.

I got a package from my mama on Tuesday. It was so exciting to get mail. Though it was mildly an ordeal to get it from the post office. Although pretending to not know the language is a plus because I think I was supposed to pay some customs duties on the stuff but I didn't.

Last night, a small group of us went to eat at a Vietnamese restaurant. Now it was more like anything Asain but it was actually really good. I think we are planning on going back next week.

-Jescie

Sunday, July 20, 2008

Au Borg Nord

I had an extremely relaxing weekend just like I wanted. It was so nice to chill out in Fes, though it was over 100 everyday, and not do anything. I read a little, went online a lot, and lounged around the villa. So great.

After having a not so great Friday night it was nice to sleep in on Saturday and lounge. I woke up around 9am and made some breakfast. Read a little and just watched some MTV/VH1. They still play mainly music videos on those channels here which was weird. I went to lunch with Holly, another girl who lives in the villa. It was good. We went to my favorite spot in Tajine town, that's what we call this little strip of cheap traditional Moroccan food stands. After that I took a nap and then went with Phil to McDonalds. All and all a very relaxing day.

Today I woke up at 8am after sleeping for like 3 hours last night. I met Jacqueline to go hiking/walking to the Borg Nord. It is this old fort the Sultan used to observe the people of Fes because they were considered prone to rioting and what not against the government. After getting wrong directions from a police officer we made it to the top and saw some Merenid tombs as well. The rest of the day was spent cooking and figureing out what to do for my last week here.

I have decided to go to Agadir. It is a very touristy beach town in the south. It'll be nice to escape Fes and Morocco and relax by the pool.

Well, that's all for now. Looking forward to over 100 degree heat for the rest of my time here. YAY

-Jescie

Friday, July 18, 2008

Moroccan men are creeptastic

So I haven't had the best of weeks. It started out really well. I was mildly homesick but I got to go back to my homestay and I moved into the student residence which is nice. But since then I have been trying to find the good in Fes and it is really hard. I know I shouldn't be complaining because I am in a foreign country and getting opportunities that most people only dream of but even abroad you can have bad days. And recently, I've had a few.

I got sick again this week. I think I have a parasite of sorts in my intestines. It sucks. I have some antibiotics but for now I feel fine so I'm gonna save them until I'm not doing well again. I skipped class on Thursday morning because I was up all night feeling awful. At least Rose was away for the evening otherwise it probably would have been unpleasant for her to share a room with me and my sick self.

The weather is getting unbearable again. It has made me rethink heading south after classes are over. I know I told my friend Suzanne I would travel with her but I found this sweet deal to go to France so if all the logistics work out I may be going to Europe for the week. But that is also massively expensive so we'll see. If not I think I'm gonna go to a town on the Mediterranean and just chill til I leave for home.

Today I went out with some other students. It was ok. There was a mass miscommunication and I ended up leaving early with my friend Brad to meet Christie for dinner. It was nice to have a quiet evening. However, I went with Christie to McDonalds to meet a friend of hers and get a soda with ice, yes drinks with ice are rare here. It wasn't dark yet so I told her I could walk myself the two blocks or so it takes to get home and we have a guard so I wasn't really concerned. However, I got followed the entire way by this creepy man in a car. He would drive like twenty feet ahead of me and then pull over get out and try to talk to me. I pretended like I was going into the hotel a little ways up from the villa but it didn't work. I made it home fine but it really freaked me out. I really don't wanna start fearing this place or hating Morocco. My friend Allie got robbed in the medina on Wednesday in broad daylight at knife point. It is just really freaky. I am still shocked that I am still here after getting robbed on the train.

On a better note, it is weird that I keep saying my friend so and so and I did this with my friend blah. I mean I have been here for four weeks but I feel really close to certain people already. I hope we stay in contact once we get back but who knows if that will happen. I also continue to meet a lot of new students which is cool too.

Well, I hope after a weekend of relaxing and catching up I am feeling a little more positive about life in Morocco. I am over half way done with my trip which is a weird feeling.

-Jescie

Thursday, July 17, 2008

It's dirt!

Another week in Fes has just flown by. I can't believe I have almost finished four weeks of classes. Although I am ready to come home and enjoy what's left of my summer.

On Tuesday night Charlotte and I cooked dinner for our homestay family. It was an experience. We made pasta with veggies in it, coleslaw, garlic bread, and dirt for dessert. We also made enough for about three families our size, especially considering Moroccans eat pretty light for dinner.

It was fun though. They really enjoyed it. All the women thought that we were not domestic and are seriously concerned for our future husbands so we had to show them we were capable of doing something. although we managed to use the wrong plates but it was ok.

We made dirt for dessert for the kids. If you don't know what that is you had a sad sad childhood. It is crumbled up cookies, chocolate pudding and gummy worms. I don't think they totally understood the concept but the kids liked it. We have adorable pictures of the mess they made. And poor Si Mohammed choked on a worm when he was showing off his monster skills.

It was nice to be back in their house and just sit around the dinner table and laugh and talk with the family. I promised them that I would come back this weekend and spend the night. I really do miss them and the medina. It is really weird being in Morocco and not walking through the ancient medina everyday. But life in La Ville Nouvelle has it perks too. Like not being followed home at night.

I got a new roommate in the villa. Rose. She is awesome. She also went to St. Mary's Ryken which makes her even more awesome. In case you don't know, that's the school my Dawnie went to. So we can talk about things we miss from the county and it makes me not so homesick anymore. Sadly I miss the county. :(

-Jescie

Sunday, July 13, 2008

Where they cut off your ear if they don't like your face

It's barabaric, but hey, it's home!

Yes those are the original lyrics to Arabian Nights from Aladdin. Which we attempted, sadly, to sing on our two hour camel trek this weekend.

So we had a big three day trip to the Sahara this weekend with the language school. I was beyond pumped for it because the first summer session said it was totally worth it and that it would be like the best time ever in Morocco. While it was new and interesting, best time ever is not how I would explain it. It was definitely an experience that I will probably never be able to have again and years from now will be glad I went. Right now I am beyond happy to be back in Fes, and faraway from the Sahara.

We left Friday after the first set of classes ended. I moved out of my homestay, totally skipped class for no other reason than the fact that I felt like it, and got on a mildly air conditioned and very tight fitting bus to Erfoud. The ride wasn't too bad. Our driver was actually not crazy for Moroccan drivers and minus a little air flow and leg room problem the trip seemed good thus far.

We got to our first hotel which was absolutely amazing. It was in a small little town just outside the true Sahara. We were greeted by music and dancing Berbers. The hotel had a n amazing pool area and the rooms were exquisite. We hung out by the pool before having a buffet still dinner with Berber music and camels. Minus the mass mosquito infestation, it was really a good night. After dinner everyone went swimming with the exception of me and my amazing but equally lame roommate who after an intense political convo at dinner went to bed. It was so nice to sleep in and have a real, hot shower for once.

The next day we left at around noon for the actual Sahara. We stopped for a tajine lunch and some water before going to our second hotel in Merzouga. The hotel was literally in the middle of nowhere. The landscape was black rock covering sand and it was extremely winding. After a little while of this there was a hand painted sign for our hotel and we took off through this rock. There seemed to be a path at one point but due to the wind it was blown over. After awhile of driving to what appeared to be no where we hit our hotel. It was really nice too, though because of the wind storm we went straight inside.

After hanging out for a few hours, wind storm and all we went to board our camels. We went on a painful two hour plus camel trek to the oasis. We had an almost spill pretty early and then two people feel off halfway through when Andrew's saddle broke. He flew down a dune and the camel followed suit. It was actually really disturbing. the second person fell as a result of quickly trying to get off her camel which was tied to Andrew's. Other than that and the uncomfortable saddles the ride wasn't too bad despite the wind storm.

Once at the oasis we had dinner and music. We all had tents but they were so hot most of us pulled our mattresses out into the open air and slept. The wind persisted most of the night but finally ended just before sunrise. We had to ride the camels back. I was beyond sore but I rode side saddle so it wasn't too bad. Then we showered and drove home.

All in all, I'm sure I'll be glad I did it but not the amazing experience everyone sad it would be. I can't believe people actually chose to live in climates like that.

-Jescie

Thursday, July 10, 2008

Is it sanitary to wrap my nuts in this?

This week has seriously flown by. I can't believe that I have been gone for almost three weeks now. Crazy.

I move out of my home stay tomorrow. I am really excited about it too. I love the family and plan to see them a lot but I will hopefully start to feel better. The house in the medina is soooo hot and the food has made me pretty sick. It is also an annoying commute everyday and I am not really getting my money's worth since I don't go home for lunch. I also NEVER study.

I think this week I have been the sickest I've been since I've gotten here. It wouldn't be so bad except that the family still tries to feed me. They just don't get that all I wanna do is sleep. Hopefully, I'll feel better before the desert trip this weekend but we'll see.

Last night was kindof fun. I went to have tea at one of the married sisters houses. It was a small apartment type house in the medina. Very different from my homestay house. She was an excellent hostess and all the food she gave me just made me feel even worse but it was really good. I didn't get the memo that we would be spending the night until like 9pm but I was able to convince them that I needed to go home. I felt so sick there was no way I would have made it all night at her place.

Today class was canceled which was so sweet. I slept til 9 and had breakfast with the family. We meet the elementary school teacher of the families children and I finally met all the children. I say children but they are almost all at least 20 years old. Two of the daughters are married with children and two are engaged. I also found out that there are two sets of twins. Not to mention the mass amount of twins in the extended family. It runs in their family.

Well, That's all for today. I'm gonna go laydown before my afternoon class. Cuz you cared to know that.

-Jescie

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

Ustadh Charafa

Last night was one of my best nights in Fes and definitely deserves its own blog.

Charlotte and I went back to our homestay right after class because we were going visiting with one of the sisters, Charafa, and her cousin, Ismail. We went to the cousin's old neighborhood in the medina, which was very close to our homestay. There we visited a friend of his from when he was really little.

We spent the entire night on the roof of this families house just talking, drinking coffee, and of course eating. The family was amazing. The mother was so funny and loved entertaining. She showed us pictures of her family and told us about her children. She told Charlotte that she looked like her daughter because they were both white. She was very comical.

We also went up to the terrace and looked at the neighborhood. It was a more rundown area of the medina. It is interesting to see the variance in the areas even within the medieval medina. Some areas have been kept really nice and the houses are still in good condition. While others, like this one, make you feel like any second the houses will fall down around you. We had an interesting culture clash when the wind started blowing on the roof. Charlotte was wearing a skirt that would be considered long by US standards but not in Morocco. The wind was bad and blew it up. We were so embarrassed even though it only showed her thighs. In the US we would not have even cared. Getting down was interesting too because we had to climb a ladder.

The incident started an entire conversation on the differences between Morocco and the US. We talked about how girls wear skirts to play sports in the US that are shorter than what Charlotte was wearing. Somehow this led to a discussion on immigration which was cool. Friends of the sons of the family illegally immigrated to Europe so we were talking about problems surrounding that and how weird it is that you merely have to be born in the US to be considered a citizen.

Overall, it was a very interesting evening. I think it is really impressive that people from totally different backgrounds and people who speak different languages can have such an intellectual conversation.

The women of my family are amazing. Though I feel they are the driving force behind the conservative and religiousness of the house they are all well educated and very strong and empowered women. It shows that not all women who live in conservative countries suffer from their lower status in comparison to men. Charafa is getting her second degree and her sister Khalwa is a lawyer in the new city. They all speak multiple languages and have career goals as well as desire to raise a traditional Islamic Moroccan family. Though I feel my family is a pretty unique case especially in the medina.

Monday, July 7, 2008

Rocking the Kasbah

This weekend a group of us went to Chefchaouen. It is a quaint little town in the Rif Mountains about four hours from Fes. It is one of the few places I really wanted to go to last time I was here but just didn't have the chance.

The town is absolutely amazing. It comes close to being better than Fes. We stayed in the old medina pretty much the entire time. With the exception of the Kasbah or Kasabah as it is known there, all the walls are painted some shade of blue. It is really weird looking. It honestly looks like the town came straight out of a Dr. Suess book. I wish I had pictures to post but I feel like they wouldn't do it justice anyways.

It was so different from Fes. It was cooler which was a good change but Fes has also started to cool down. The shopkeepers are more laid back than in my medina. They definitely don't hassle you and I wasn't followed once in the medina. It was so nice to shop and not be worried about not being able to shake the shopkeeper. I actually browsed a lot without pressure.

We went on a decent hike on Sunday to a ruined mosque in the mountains. We then went a little further into the mountains to a second mosque which was still in use. Here we were followed by people trying to show us around the trails and asking if we wanted Kif or to be taken to their Kif farms. There were also little boys asking for money but other than that we were pretty much left alone.

It was so nice to be away from the family for awhile and to have a real bed and shower.

-Jescie

Friday, July 4, 2008

Mish Inglisia, arabia fukt

So I realized I haven't really written in this as much I planned on it but here's a little update.

I ran into my old home stay family on Tuesday in the medina. It was really nice. I was so afraid that they might not remember me but they totally did. I had tea with them and my new room mate at the home stay on Wednesday. At first only the mom was home which I thought would be weird because we didn't talk too much last time I was here. She only speaks Arabic and since I was just learning my alphabet last time communication was a little hard. But we actually talked and it was really nice. I didn't realize how good of a homestay I had last time.

I have started going to this little cafe in the medina. It is called cafe clock. It is a really cozy place that is run by a British couple. It's a little pricey but totally worth it to go and study. They have decent juice. I'm not much of a juice drinking but my friend Sybille has started me on a mini juice kick. I go out for juice at least once a day now. It has mildly replaced my caffeine addiction.

So my family has had a death in the family and we have had a house full of people all week. It is interesting to see the whole process even though the circumstances aren't the best. We met an uncle who is down the street from my family and has homestay kids as well. He is amazing. Last night a bunch of students met him at a nearby cafe and he only let us speak in arabic. I was shocked that I could say as much as I can in Arabic. Makes me feel like I am finally grasping the language a little bit.

So if I repeat stories or anything in my blog you'll just have to deal. I totally don't remember what I have already written and I don't plan on going back and rereading entries.

-Jescie

Tuesday, July 1, 2008

You have beautiful eyes....

So a lot has changed since I was in Fes last time but one thing is definitely the same. Guys in the street are still as obnoxious as ever. I don't think I will ever complain about guys in the US honking and stuff again. I forgot how annoying it was to live in the old medina. I am followed nearly everyday by random Moroccan men who call things at me. Sometimes in English but not always. They don't just do it to foreigners though. Local women deal with the same thing everyday. It kind of sucks and makes walking home alone less than thrilling. I do have a roommate now though so at least I won't be wandering the streets of the old medina by myself anymore.

This past weekend I went to a little town about twenty minutes outside of Fes called Sefrou. It was founded by Jews who fled from Spain and is named after them. In it's heyday they say that the streets of the mellah (the name for Jewish quarters) were so0 crowded that they had to light the streets even during the day. Today it is deserted for the most part. Mainly Berbers live there now as most Jews have left Morocco completely. There was a cute little cascade just west of the town were EVERYONE went to escape the heat. The pool around the cascade was extremely shallow but little boys still jumped from this balcony which was about two stories up. I think the best was the teenager who thought it would be a good idea to belly flop off the balcony. He didn't move too quickly after that.

My host family is amazing. Although they think I am malnourished and discuss this every meal. Anyone who knows me knows I eat plenty so think about how much Moroccans eat. Surprisingly there are few overweight Moroccans. Though they don't desire to be skinny like Americans. I'd say a size 8 here is considered normal and anything less is too small. All I hear from the family is 'kooli kooli'. Which means eat eat. Kind of like if I was living with my own Moroccan grandmother.

Yesterday I made my first trip to MacDonalds. It is the largest one in Africa. I'm not exactly sure if that is a huge feat because I don't know how many there are in Africa. the price for food is ridiculously expensive because it is priced the same as in America. We normally don't go there but it is one of the few places in the city with air conditioning so we went to escape the heat which is getting almost unbearable. :(

-Jescie